BV/S neighbor and Travis County Master Gardener Reeve Hobbie is glad to be able to offer pertinent gardening subjects in articles throughout the year. His past month-to-month gardening tips may be found in the “Around the Yard” archives.
Around the Yard in November and December
by Reeve Hobbie, Master Gardener
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Finally cooler!!! But it shouldn’t be too cool to prevent you from working around your yard. In this article, I share with you what you might consider doing during the months of November and December.
November
Lawn Care Keep mowing your St. Augustine lawn on the high side, and Bermuda grass to a medium length, as long as it keeps growing. Perhaps mowing every other week is sufficient, but do get the fall leaves off your grass or mulched in very fine.
It’s too late to apply fertilizer to your grass. Now you have to wait until April to put an application down. That should be around the time your income tax is due. (Sorry for that reminder.) Weed killer earlier, perhaps January, but fertilizer not until mid April. Never both together.
Roses Prepare beds now if you plan on growing new roses. December through February are the ideal rose planting months in Central Texas. There is much less stress on the plants if they go into the ground during this dormant time of year. Pruning of all roses will be coming up in late January or early February. (I’ll remind you in my next article.)
Indoor “Forced” Gardening If you want to enjoy home-grown flowers in the winter, this is a great time to purchase the bulbs of paperwhites, amaryllis, tulips, hyacinths and daffodils. Simply put the bulbs into pots or vases, suspended off the bottom with perhaps marbles or decorative stones, and start watering. No need for soil. No need to chill the bulbs beforehand. In a little while you’ll enjoy ‘forced’ blooms to brighten your winter days. Kids love to watch the daily growth of the leaves, stems and finally the blooms.
House Plants For your regular house plants, such as African violets, philodendrons and ferns, ease off on the fertilizer you give them until mid-March.
Winter Annuals Continue to set outside cool-season bedding plants, such as pansies, violas, stock, snapdragons and dianthus. Plant where you can enjoy the color while at the same time animals, like deer and rabbits, are not tempted to eat them.
Prune Woody Plants Don’t get over anxious to prune crape myrtles, lantanas and other woody shrubs just because they’ve dropped their leaves and it feels cool outside. Not until late January do you want to get out there with loppers and clippers. Let the plants go into a bit of dormancy or you’ll be cutting sap-filled twigs and branches if you prune too early. And that new growth could freeze and could possibly take the whole plant with it.
Spring Flowering Bulbs It’s not too late to plant bulbs outdoors. Some exceptions, (tulips and hyacinths) should be pre-chilled in the refrigerator for at least six weeks or more. Be sure to plant them to the recommended depth usually found on the bulb packaging.
First Frost Protection The average date range for a first frost or freeze in our area of town is between November 21 and 31 (but who knows with climate change). When temperatures are predicted to fall below 32°F, covering delicate plants with blankets or sheets will trap the heat rising up from the ground. Do not use plastic. If you haven’t applied a new layer of mulch, consider adding a few inches around plants to help insulate their roots from a possible freeze.
Tomatoes Large, almost mature tomatoes may be picked just ahead of the first frost. Store them in a cool dark area until ripe. When you want one or two to ripen for use, place the tomatoes in a paper bag. One source I read even suggests a ripe apple be placed in the same bag to speed up the tomato ripening process.
December
Last Bulb Planting Hyacinths or tulips may now be taken from the refrigerator, where hopefully you have been chilling them for the past 8 to 10 weeks. They may finally be planted in the garden. All other spring-flowering bulbs should have been planted in October or November.
Prepare Soil Spring will be just around the corner, so any nice day in December would be a good time to get outside to prepare garden beds for spring planting. Clean out dead and spent plants, leaves, and mix in compost to enrich the organic content of the soil.
Fallen Leaves With the exception of the live oak tree leaves, most other deciduous trees will have dropped their leaves by now. It’s a good idea to get them up and off the lawn and either put into your compost pile or distributed into your garden beds as an added layer of mulch to protect your plants. Leaves left on the lawn all fall and winter may cause disease problems if a layer of them keeps the grass too dark and wet.
Planting & Transplanting This month and next is truly the best time of year to plant new trees and shrubs. It’s also the best time to transplant roses, shrubs, trees, groundcover and vines so that they get established before warm weather arrives next spring. Be sure that any major landscape project is pre-approved by the BVS Architectural Control Committee.
Pruning Oaks Because oak wilt is such a threat to our precious oak trees, pruning in the dead of winter (December and January only) or on the hottest days of summer is the best time if your trees truly need pruning at all. Fungus-carrying sap beetles are active from early February through June and could infect your trees with this dreaded disease. That’s why we have warning signs posted around the neighborhood in the spring. Even in the “safe” months, cover all oak tree cuts with pruning paint – and we’re talking within 10 minutes of making each cut! Please consider employing a professional arborist. Travis County Master Gardeners have a list of about 20 certified firms. ABSOLUTELY NO PRUNING OAKS AFTER JANUARY 31. You’ll see this same warning in my January & February “Around the Yard” article.
Mistletoe & Ball Moss Oak trees, yaupons, crape myrtles and many other deciduous trees may be harboring mistletoe and/or ball moss. Mistletoe is a parasite that feeds on the nutrients and water of its host tree. It is also poisonous. It should be removed from your trees and that can be a challenge. I suggest you call in an arborist to help you eradicate the parasite.
Ball moss, on the other hand, is not a parasite, but can smother the tree’s foliage and possibly kill it. Trees with large amounts of ball moss should have the grey epiphyte removed. Calling in a certified arborist at this time of year could prove to be beneficial.
Tools & Equipment In December, when you have time between lawn mowings, consider taking your mower into the shop for repairs (tune up, blade sharpening) and avoid the spring rush! Also, hand tools may be cleaned up, sharpened and oiled if you are retiring them for a while.
Prepare for a Hard Freeze When our weather forecasters warn us of a deep or long freeze, it’s advisable to water everything well before the freeze actually hits. Water increases the heat-holding capacity of the soil by as much as 50 percent. But don’t water during the freeze. Cover delicate plants with sheets or blankets, but never plastic.
With this last article of the year, I close out another year of semi-successful gardening. May 2020 be gentler on all our yards.
________________________________________
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
November
Lawn Care Keep mowing your St. Augustine lawn on the high side, and Bermuda grass to a medium length, as long as it keeps growing. Perhaps mowing every other week is sufficient, but do get the fall leaves off your grass or mulched in very fine.
It’s too late to apply fertilizer to your grass. Now you have to wait until April to put an application down. That should be around the time your income tax is due. (Sorry for that reminder.) Weed killer earlier, perhaps January, but fertilizer not until mid April. Never both together.
Roses Prepare beds now if you plan on growing new roses. December through February are the ideal rose planting months in Central Texas. There is much less stress on the plants if they go into the ground during this dormant time of year. Pruning of all roses will be coming up in late January or early February. (I’ll remind you in my next article.)
Indoor “Forced” Gardening If you want to enjoy home-grown flowers in the winter, this is a great time to purchase the bulbs of paperwhites, amaryllis, tulips, hyacinths and daffodils. Simply put the bulbs into pots or vases, suspended off the bottom with perhaps marbles or decorative stones, and start watering. No need for soil. No need to chill the bulbs beforehand. In a little while you’ll enjoy ‘forced’ blooms to brighten your winter days. Kids love to watch the daily growth of the leaves, stems and finally the blooms.
House Plants For your regular house plants, such as African violets, philodendrons and ferns, ease off on the fertilizer you give them until mid-March.
Winter Annuals Continue to set outside cool-season bedding plants, such as pansies, violas, stock, snapdragons and dianthus. Plant where you can enjoy the color while at the same time animals, like deer and rabbits, are not tempted to eat them.
Prune Woody Plants Don’t get over anxious to prune crape myrtles, lantanas and other woody shrubs just because they’ve dropped their leaves and it feels cool outside. Not until late January do you want to get out there with loppers and clippers. Let the plants go into a bit of dormancy or you’ll be cutting sap-filled twigs and branches if you prune too early. And that new growth could freeze and could possibly take the whole plant with it.
Spring Flowering Bulbs It’s not too late to plant bulbs outdoors. Some exceptions, (tulips and hyacinths) should be pre-chilled in the refrigerator for at least six weeks or more. Be sure to plant them to the recommended depth usually found on the bulb packaging.
First Frost Protection The average date range for a first frost or freeze in our area of town is between November 21 and 31 (but who knows with climate change). When temperatures are predicted to fall below 32°F, covering delicate plants with blankets or sheets will trap the heat rising up from the ground. Do not use plastic. If you haven’t applied a new layer of mulch, consider adding a few inches around plants to help insulate their roots from a possible freeze.
Tomatoes Large, almost mature tomatoes may be picked just ahead of the first frost. Store them in a cool dark area until ripe. When you want one or two to ripen for use, place the tomatoes in a paper bag. One source I read even suggests a ripe apple be placed in the same bag to speed up the tomato ripening process.
December
Last Bulb Planting Hyacinths or tulips may now be taken from the refrigerator, where hopefully you have been chilling them for the past 8 to 10 weeks. They may finally be planted in the garden. All other spring-flowering bulbs should have been planted in October or November.
Prepare Soil Spring will be just around the corner, so any nice day in December would be a good time to get outside to prepare garden beds for spring planting. Clean out dead and spent plants, leaves, and mix in compost to enrich the organic content of the soil.
Fallen Leaves With the exception of the live oak tree leaves, most other deciduous trees will have dropped their leaves by now. It’s a good idea to get them up and off the lawn and either put into your compost pile or distributed into your garden beds as an added layer of mulch to protect your plants. Leaves left on the lawn all fall and winter may cause disease problems if a layer of them keeps the grass too dark and wet.
Planting & Transplanting This month and next is truly the best time of year to plant new trees and shrubs. It’s also the best time to transplant roses, shrubs, trees, groundcover and vines so that they get established before warm weather arrives next spring. Be sure that any major landscape project is pre-approved by the BVS Architectural Control Committee.
Pruning Oaks Because oak wilt is such a threat to our precious oak trees, pruning in the dead of winter (December and January only) or on the hottest days of summer is the best time if your trees truly need pruning at all. Fungus-carrying sap beetles are active from early February through June and could infect your trees with this dreaded disease. That’s why we have warning signs posted around the neighborhood in the spring. Even in the “safe” months, cover all oak tree cuts with pruning paint – and we’re talking within 10 minutes of making each cut! Please consider employing a professional arborist. Travis County Master Gardeners have a list of about 20 certified firms. ABSOLUTELY NO PRUNING OAKS AFTER JANUARY 31. You’ll see this same warning in my January & February “Around the Yard” article.
Mistletoe & Ball Moss Oak trees, yaupons, crape myrtles and many other deciduous trees may be harboring mistletoe and/or ball moss. Mistletoe is a parasite that feeds on the nutrients and water of its host tree. It is also poisonous. It should be removed from your trees and that can be a challenge. I suggest you call in an arborist to help you eradicate the parasite.
Ball moss, on the other hand, is not a parasite, but can smother the tree’s foliage and possibly kill it. Trees with large amounts of ball moss should have the grey epiphyte removed. Calling in a certified arborist at this time of year could prove to be beneficial.
Tools & Equipment In December, when you have time between lawn mowings, consider taking your mower into the shop for repairs (tune up, blade sharpening) and avoid the spring rush! Also, hand tools may be cleaned up, sharpened and oiled if you are retiring them for a while.
Prepare for a Hard Freeze When our weather forecasters warn us of a deep or long freeze, it’s advisable to water everything well before the freeze actually hits. Water increases the heat-holding capacity of the soil by as much as 50 percent. But don’t water during the freeze. Cover delicate plants with sheets or blankets, but never plastic.
With this last article of the year, I close out another year of semi-successful gardening. May 2020 be gentler on all our yards.
________________________________________
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
Around the Yard in September and October
by Reeve Hobbie, Master Gardener
Who would have ever expected that one of the wettest and coolest springs would lead to such a brutally hot, rainless summer! I know our gardens and lawns were not ready for the sudden changeover nor were we in preparing our yards for the full blast of day in and day out heat and dryness. However, we’re over the hump of summer and hopefully won’t see anymore triple-digit degree days. One thing we know for sure, September and October weather cannot possibly be as nasty as what we experienced in August.
September
Watering - Once a week water restrictions were never loosened up despite our reservoirs filling up, so “deep” is still the key word with watering lawns, gardens, shrubs and trees on your one and only designated day. Now if 1 to 1½ inches of rain each week does not come, then continue to water all lawns and planted areas generously, especially your trees,and in accordance with the hours of our City of Austin water restrictions.
Lawns - Cutting “high” is still what you should be doing to your lawn. A stressed lawn (too much sun, too little water, infrequent mowing, thick thatch accumulation) is susceptible to diseases and pests. Brown patch (brown in color, circular in shape) may show up later this month as it begins to cool down while chinch bugs may already have caused damage(irregular-shaped dead grass) at the peak of summer’s heat.There is a fungicide for the brown patch and an insecticide for the chinch bugs if you feel you need to treat your lawn.
Trees - Continue watering trees. Our very hot and dry July and August have been hard on them.It is okay to prune trees throughout fall. It’s a good idea to paint the cuts of oaks, but not necessary to paint the fresh wounds of all other kinds of trees. To be safe, get your oak pruning done before February 1, if you believe it’s even necessary.
Prep Beds - Good soil preparation is the key to successful gardening. It’s best to prep your garden beds, old or new, with the addition of compost or other organic matter to amend the soil. Work it down into the soil where it will benefit the roots of the plants and bulbs you’ll be putting in later. A good crumbly soil will mean better aeration and drainage for fall vegetables, winter annuals, perennials and bulbs. Remember, fall and winter are actually the best planting seasons in Central Texas.
Perennials - Spring and early summer bloomers that appear to be overcrowded in your garden may now through next month be divided. I’m talking about daisies, daylilies, iris, phlox, spring and summer blooming bulbs and many more. After you dig them up and make your divides, replant some and pass extras to your neighbors and friends.
Wildflowers - Purchase your favorite wildflower seeds and begin planting them according to package directions. Many of the species will quickly germinate in order to allow the seedlings enough time to establish a healthy root system and then grow rapidly and bloom in spring when the earth warms up. Some of the seeds may not germinate if the ground temperature is too cool. These seeds will remain dormant within the soil until early spring and will begin to emerge under more favorable conditions.
October
Annuals - This is a great month to be planting winter annual transplantsto brighten up your yard through the cooler months. Cyclamen, flowering cabbage and kale, alyssum, dianthus, dusty miller, stock, snapdragons, calendulas, pansies and violas are just a few to consider putting in the ground.
Vegetables - It’s still hard for me to accept, having gardened in New Jersey and Minnesota before coming to Texas, that a fall vegetable garden here actually yields more than a spring vegetable garden. If you are interested in what to plant (right down to the variety) and when to plant, go to
aggie-horticulture.tamu/travis where you can find a downloadable planting calendar and a multi-page vegetable variety selection list.Try a fall vegetable garden. You might enjoy it.
Roses - No later than February 14 (Valentine’s Day) or even before that in January, is major pruning day for rose bushes, but October is also the time of year you may prune to shape them. Just be a little gentler and not cut back half of the plant like we are encouraged to do in February. Stop fertilizing after your last batch of blooms.
Caladiums - The last plant to go in the ground in spring is also the first plant that needs to come out of the ground in fall because of cooling soil. Lift the tubers out of the ground and dry them out a bit. When tops die back, clip off. Clean the tubers gently and try to keep them from touching one another as you store them in dry peat moss, vermiculite or perlite in an area that doesn’t go below 55 degrees.
Hollies - There is a tendency to fertilize lawns and gardens, but to forget the needs of shrubs and trees. Holly plants with a heavy set of berries often suffer from a fertilizer deficiency. Applying a complete fertilizer late in October can be fruitful (groan)and will provide a head start next spring.
Bulbs - Consider planting daffodils, crocus, paperwhites, jonquils and the like in your well-prepared beds. Varieties that claim to naturalize well usually mean that they are adaptable to Central Texas. When planting, the base of each bulb should be at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb. Tulip and hyacinth bulbs require a “forced cold”before going into the ground.These bulbs need to be refrigerated until mid to late December (at least six weeks) before planting. The lower part of the refrigerator is best. Do not leave bulbs in plastic bags during this refrigerated storage.Instead, use paper bags.
Lawn Care - Continue to water and mow your lawn all through the fall. Don’t ease up on the mowing until your lawn stops growing.You may apply less water, but don’t stop until your lawn goes dormant. If you believe it is necessary, you may fertilize your lawn later this month with a 3-1-2ratio fertilizer, as the next opportunity to fertilize doesn’t come until April 15 (Income Tax Filing Day) after your lawn naturally greens up.
Mulch - If you haven’t already put down more mulch to protect your plants from the summer’s sun, you’ll want to apply some now. Mulching is even more important at this time of year as the weather changes and the temperatures drop. A three-to six-inch layer of organic mulch helps maintain soil temperature. Lack of winter mulch may lead to the death of many perennials and small shrubs as the roots may be exposed to freezing temperatures they cannot handle.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
September
Watering - Once a week water restrictions were never loosened up despite our reservoirs filling up, so “deep” is still the key word with watering lawns, gardens, shrubs and trees on your one and only designated day. Now if 1 to 1½ inches of rain each week does not come, then continue to water all lawns and planted areas generously, especially your trees,and in accordance with the hours of our City of Austin water restrictions.
Lawns - Cutting “high” is still what you should be doing to your lawn. A stressed lawn (too much sun, too little water, infrequent mowing, thick thatch accumulation) is susceptible to diseases and pests. Brown patch (brown in color, circular in shape) may show up later this month as it begins to cool down while chinch bugs may already have caused damage(irregular-shaped dead grass) at the peak of summer’s heat.There is a fungicide for the brown patch and an insecticide for the chinch bugs if you feel you need to treat your lawn.
Trees - Continue watering trees. Our very hot and dry July and August have been hard on them.It is okay to prune trees throughout fall. It’s a good idea to paint the cuts of oaks, but not necessary to paint the fresh wounds of all other kinds of trees. To be safe, get your oak pruning done before February 1, if you believe it’s even necessary.
Prep Beds - Good soil preparation is the key to successful gardening. It’s best to prep your garden beds, old or new, with the addition of compost or other organic matter to amend the soil. Work it down into the soil where it will benefit the roots of the plants and bulbs you’ll be putting in later. A good crumbly soil will mean better aeration and drainage for fall vegetables, winter annuals, perennials and bulbs. Remember, fall and winter are actually the best planting seasons in Central Texas.
Perennials - Spring and early summer bloomers that appear to be overcrowded in your garden may now through next month be divided. I’m talking about daisies, daylilies, iris, phlox, spring and summer blooming bulbs and many more. After you dig them up and make your divides, replant some and pass extras to your neighbors and friends.
Wildflowers - Purchase your favorite wildflower seeds and begin planting them according to package directions. Many of the species will quickly germinate in order to allow the seedlings enough time to establish a healthy root system and then grow rapidly and bloom in spring when the earth warms up. Some of the seeds may not germinate if the ground temperature is too cool. These seeds will remain dormant within the soil until early spring and will begin to emerge under more favorable conditions.
October
Annuals - This is a great month to be planting winter annual transplantsto brighten up your yard through the cooler months. Cyclamen, flowering cabbage and kale, alyssum, dianthus, dusty miller, stock, snapdragons, calendulas, pansies and violas are just a few to consider putting in the ground.
Vegetables - It’s still hard for me to accept, having gardened in New Jersey and Minnesota before coming to Texas, that a fall vegetable garden here actually yields more than a spring vegetable garden. If you are interested in what to plant (right down to the variety) and when to plant, go to
aggie-horticulture.tamu/travis where you can find a downloadable planting calendar and a multi-page vegetable variety selection list.Try a fall vegetable garden. You might enjoy it.
Roses - No later than February 14 (Valentine’s Day) or even before that in January, is major pruning day for rose bushes, but October is also the time of year you may prune to shape them. Just be a little gentler and not cut back half of the plant like we are encouraged to do in February. Stop fertilizing after your last batch of blooms.
Caladiums - The last plant to go in the ground in spring is also the first plant that needs to come out of the ground in fall because of cooling soil. Lift the tubers out of the ground and dry them out a bit. When tops die back, clip off. Clean the tubers gently and try to keep them from touching one another as you store them in dry peat moss, vermiculite or perlite in an area that doesn’t go below 55 degrees.
Hollies - There is a tendency to fertilize lawns and gardens, but to forget the needs of shrubs and trees. Holly plants with a heavy set of berries often suffer from a fertilizer deficiency. Applying a complete fertilizer late in October can be fruitful (groan)and will provide a head start next spring.
Bulbs - Consider planting daffodils, crocus, paperwhites, jonquils and the like in your well-prepared beds. Varieties that claim to naturalize well usually mean that they are adaptable to Central Texas. When planting, the base of each bulb should be at a depth that is three times the diameter of the bulb. Tulip and hyacinth bulbs require a “forced cold”before going into the ground.These bulbs need to be refrigerated until mid to late December (at least six weeks) before planting. The lower part of the refrigerator is best. Do not leave bulbs in plastic bags during this refrigerated storage.Instead, use paper bags.
Lawn Care - Continue to water and mow your lawn all through the fall. Don’t ease up on the mowing until your lawn stops growing.You may apply less water, but don’t stop until your lawn goes dormant. If you believe it is necessary, you may fertilize your lawn later this month with a 3-1-2ratio fertilizer, as the next opportunity to fertilize doesn’t come until April 15 (Income Tax Filing Day) after your lawn naturally greens up.
Mulch - If you haven’t already put down more mulch to protect your plants from the summer’s sun, you’ll want to apply some now. Mulching is even more important at this time of year as the weather changes and the temperatures drop. A three-to six-inch layer of organic mulch helps maintain soil temperature. Lack of winter mulch may lead to the death of many perennials and small shrubs as the roots may be exposed to freezing temperatures they cannot handle.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
Around the Yard in July and August
by Reeve Hobbie, Master Gardener
It was inevitable. Summer arrived and with a vengeance. Here are some thoughts on what you can and should do around your yard during these relentlessly hot, dry days.
July
Watering “Deep” is the key word with the watering of lawns, gardens, shrubs and trees. If we don’t receive 1 to 1½ inches of rain each week, then on your designated day you may water lawns and planted areas generously. It’s far better to water infrequently, but very thoroughly, during these hot months. Grass, plants and trees will put their roots down a whole lot deeper away from the hot surface temperatures if they expect a generous amount of water only every seven days. This watering frequency also abides with our city’s mandates.(Note that hand-held hose watering, drip irrigationand regular sprinkler irrigation may have different schedules.)
Lawn Care
“High” is the opportune word here. Keep mowing every week on a high mower setting. Grass clippings should be allowed to fall back onto the lawn, at least once in a while, as both a source of nutrients and light mulch. If you are not getting a clean cut from your mower, you may need to sharpen your blade or get your mower into the shop for repairs.
Soil & Compost
Mulch all bare soil and add some to existing mulched beds. Why? Because it helps to hold in soil moisture, keeps the soil cooler, and hampers weed growth. If you have a compost pileout back, give it a turn and keep adding new ingredients. Avoid waste that might attract pests. Meat and fish scraps, bones, and fats such as butter, cheese and dressings should go into our city composting (green bin), but do add vegetable and fruit scraps, egg shells and coffee grounds to your compost pile for a good balance of green (nitrogen) and brown (carbon).
Caladiums
If you enjoy caladiums for their great color foliage in the shade, you may wish to give them a boost with a high nitrogen fertilizer. Water in right away when you apply. You never want to leave granular or powdered fertilizer on the foliage of any plant.
Oak Trees
The spring ban on pruning oaks is now over. If trimming is truly necessary, starting this month you may prune your oaks.The heat of summer has stopped the presence of the oak wilt disease spores. Painting the pruned cuts will decrease the chance of infection and should be applied immediately(within 10 minutes) after each cut is made.
Pests
There is a lot to watch for especially this humid summer. White flies, spider mites, leaf rollers, lace bugs and aphids may be found on many plants. Cinch bugs, fleas, ticks, chiggers and grubs may be on or under lawns. Scale may appear on euonymus, hollies and fruit trees. Webworms may show up on pecans and persimmons. Crape myrtles will be exhibiting powdery mildew. There are specific chemical and organic productson the market to eliminate most all of these pests. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s directions.
August
Watering
H2O is the best summer fertilizer. If for some reason we’re not blessed with enough weekly rain, then keep soaking your lawns, trees and gardens thoroughly, deeply and in accordance with the City of Austin’s latest water restrictions.
Roses
Major pruning should have taken place way back in February. Now, after roses have bloomed and are perhaps in a rest cycle, you may wish to perform a light pruning. At least cut back spent blooms to the first strong five-leaf leaflet. Also keep to your every 4-to 6-week light feeding schedule.
Crape Myrtles
Deadhead spent blooms and seed pods from crape myrtles with the possibility of one more flush of color this fall.
Vegetable Garden
If you are into growing your own vegetables, this is the month to begin planting a fall garden. With cooler temperatures coming, fewer insects to deal with, and the beginning of fall rain, you can expect to grow vegetables that will ripen in the cooler months that will have better flavor than spring-grown veggies. There are too many vegetables to list that you can grow from seed and/or transplants, but if you go to this website https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/travis/ you can find a “Vegetable Planting Calendar”and a separate “Vegetable Variety Selector, both proven to be helpful to Austin gardeners. Whatever you plant early on may need shade cloth protection from the midday August sun.
Fall Bloomers
Established perennials like asters and chrysanthemums that should put on a show of color this fall maybe pinched back one final time this month. Mexican bush sage, Copper Canyon daisies and cigar plant cuphea, all benefit from light pruning at this time. Pinching back will create bushier plants and possibly more blooms deeper into the fall.
Mulch Mulch Mulch Mulch! What more can I say? Trees, shrubs, gardens, potted plants all benefit from this good top coating.Three to four inches isn’t overdoing it. However, don’t build pyramids of mulch around treebases as you cannot bury tree trunks and expect the tree to live. Around trees and any plant stems for that matter, you are better off creating saucers; low in the middlearound the stem or trunk, high near the edges/borders with your lawn or groundcover.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
July
Watering “Deep” is the key word with the watering of lawns, gardens, shrubs and trees. If we don’t receive 1 to 1½ inches of rain each week, then on your designated day you may water lawns and planted areas generously. It’s far better to water infrequently, but very thoroughly, during these hot months. Grass, plants and trees will put their roots down a whole lot deeper away from the hot surface temperatures if they expect a generous amount of water only every seven days. This watering frequency also abides with our city’s mandates.(Note that hand-held hose watering, drip irrigationand regular sprinkler irrigation may have different schedules.)
Lawn Care
“High” is the opportune word here. Keep mowing every week on a high mower setting. Grass clippings should be allowed to fall back onto the lawn, at least once in a while, as both a source of nutrients and light mulch. If you are not getting a clean cut from your mower, you may need to sharpen your blade or get your mower into the shop for repairs.
Soil & Compost
Mulch all bare soil and add some to existing mulched beds. Why? Because it helps to hold in soil moisture, keeps the soil cooler, and hampers weed growth. If you have a compost pileout back, give it a turn and keep adding new ingredients. Avoid waste that might attract pests. Meat and fish scraps, bones, and fats such as butter, cheese and dressings should go into our city composting (green bin), but do add vegetable and fruit scraps, egg shells and coffee grounds to your compost pile for a good balance of green (nitrogen) and brown (carbon).
Caladiums
If you enjoy caladiums for their great color foliage in the shade, you may wish to give them a boost with a high nitrogen fertilizer. Water in right away when you apply. You never want to leave granular or powdered fertilizer on the foliage of any plant.
Oak Trees
The spring ban on pruning oaks is now over. If trimming is truly necessary, starting this month you may prune your oaks.The heat of summer has stopped the presence of the oak wilt disease spores. Painting the pruned cuts will decrease the chance of infection and should be applied immediately(within 10 minutes) after each cut is made.
Pests
There is a lot to watch for especially this humid summer. White flies, spider mites, leaf rollers, lace bugs and aphids may be found on many plants. Cinch bugs, fleas, ticks, chiggers and grubs may be on or under lawns. Scale may appear on euonymus, hollies and fruit trees. Webworms may show up on pecans and persimmons. Crape myrtles will be exhibiting powdery mildew. There are specific chemical and organic productson the market to eliminate most all of these pests. Be sure to follow manufacturer’s directions.
August
Watering
H2O is the best summer fertilizer. If for some reason we’re not blessed with enough weekly rain, then keep soaking your lawns, trees and gardens thoroughly, deeply and in accordance with the City of Austin’s latest water restrictions.
Roses
Major pruning should have taken place way back in February. Now, after roses have bloomed and are perhaps in a rest cycle, you may wish to perform a light pruning. At least cut back spent blooms to the first strong five-leaf leaflet. Also keep to your every 4-to 6-week light feeding schedule.
Crape Myrtles
Deadhead spent blooms and seed pods from crape myrtles with the possibility of one more flush of color this fall.
Vegetable Garden
If you are into growing your own vegetables, this is the month to begin planting a fall garden. With cooler temperatures coming, fewer insects to deal with, and the beginning of fall rain, you can expect to grow vegetables that will ripen in the cooler months that will have better flavor than spring-grown veggies. There are too many vegetables to list that you can grow from seed and/or transplants, but if you go to this website https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/travis/ you can find a “Vegetable Planting Calendar”and a separate “Vegetable Variety Selector, both proven to be helpful to Austin gardeners. Whatever you plant early on may need shade cloth protection from the midday August sun.
Fall Bloomers
Established perennials like asters and chrysanthemums that should put on a show of color this fall maybe pinched back one final time this month. Mexican bush sage, Copper Canyon daisies and cigar plant cuphea, all benefit from light pruning at this time. Pinching back will create bushier plants and possibly more blooms deeper into the fall.
Mulch Mulch Mulch Mulch! What more can I say? Trees, shrubs, gardens, potted plants all benefit from this good top coating.Three to four inches isn’t overdoing it. However, don’t build pyramids of mulch around treebases as you cannot bury tree trunks and expect the tree to live. Around trees and any plant stems for that matter, you are better off creating saucers; low in the middlearound the stem or trunk, high near the edges/borders with your lawn or groundcover.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
Around the Yard in May and June
by Reeve Hobbie
We certainly have had a good share of spring rain and with it came more weeds than usual in our lawns and gardens. But as we all know, the rain will stop coming and the sun will begin to relentlessly beat down on our yards.So, let me help you get prepared to help your landscape through the shock of full days of sunshine, ever increasing heat, and the cut off of water from above.
MAY
Lawn Care - If you haven’t done it yet and think your lawn needs a charge of nitrogen and other nutrients, you can put down lawn fertilizer. Generally, a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer is going to be right, but if you have had your soil tested recently, you may need a different N-P-K ratio. Whether you apply an organic or a chemical fertilizer, it should not contain a weed killer. Apply your fertilizer according to manufacturer’s direction suited to your spreader. Mowing should now be on a routine, once-a-week basis. Grass clippings should be allowed to drop to the lawn as they are one of the best sources of nutrients for your grass. St. Augustine grass should be sheared on the high side leaving the blades 2½ to 3 inches long. For a really shady lawn of St. Augustine, you’ll want to set your mower even higher. Bermuda grass can tolerate being cut shorter. A healthy lawn that has been fertilized, watered and mowed weekly can be your greatest defense against weeds. Keeping up your lawn mowing will keep down the weeds.
Trees, Shrubs & Ground covers
Any thoughts of planting new trees and/or shrubs probably should be tabled until next fall. Our Central Texas heat and sun can be awfully hard on new plantings, so hold off until November if you can. Instead, apply a layer of mulch to your existing shrubbery beds and tree bases. Just don’t cover any tree bark in applying a few inches of mulch. Regarding oak trees, signs all around our neighborhood point out “DO NOT PRUNE any oaks at this time.” You will have your opportunity to do so in the heat of the summer. Please don’t let an arborist convince you that it is safe to trim your oaks now. It's not.
Complete the pruning of spring-blooming shrubs. Naturally shaping them now is a good thing as they’ll continue to put out new growth and some will even begin setting buds for next spring.
Ground covers, like Asian jasmine with its fresh growth, maybe sheared back a bit to level it out. Keeping jasmine and other ground covers in check not only looks better, but may help prevent mosquitoes from harboring in them.
Bulbs
Hold off cutting back the yellowing foliage of your recently beautiful spring-blooming bulbs. Until the old leaves of narcissus and daffodils are ready to fall off on their own, they need to remain attached to their bulbs. While you can identify where your bulbs are, give them an application of bone meal to replenish the nutrients they’ll need for next spring’s show. Finally remove the spent leaves.
Roses
After your roses cycle through a bloom period, deadhead the spent flowers. Either remove just the dead flowers or cut the stems back to the first five leaflet leaves. Deadheading encourages repeat flowering and makes a tidier plant. Stick to a feeding schedule of every five or six weeks. A 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer (standard lawn fertilizer) should work fine. Although major pruning of most bush roses took place around Valentine’s Day, rambler and climbing roses are on a different schedule. Ramblers may be pruned now. Climbers should get their heavy pruning in the fall.
Perennials
Pinch back leggy plants like chrysanthemums and fall asters. This will encourage them to remain shorter, more compact, well-balanced plants with a better show in the fall. Deadhead your spring bloomers as they finish up their show. Iris, penstemon, daisies and columbine are just a few that appreciate the trimming.
Annuals
Sometime during this month those winter annuals you so enjoyed will give up blooming and stop looking pretty. Pansies, violas, snapdragons, some petunias, flowering cabbage and others literally can’t take the heat. Pull them out and replace them with a new batch of colorful, summer-loving annuals like marigolds, zinnias, periwinkle for the sunny gardens and coleus, begonias, geraniums, caladiums (yes, it’s safe to plant them later in May) for your shade gardens. Impatiens, however, are not a good choice. Even though they may look good in nurseries, there is a water-and air-borne disease out there called downy mildew that will take them out. It’s not a matter of if, but when. Luckily New Guinea impatiens are not prone to the fungus.
JUNE
Lawn & Garden Care
Keep on mowing weekly and begin watering according to Austin’s Stage 2 Water Restrictions or whatever restriction level we’re to follow in June.(Lake Travis may be full now, but we still have restrictions.) Hose-end irrigation days are different than automatic sprinkler system days, so be sure you are on the correct schedule and that you also know the limited hours of your day. Here’s where to find it:
http://austintexas.gov/department/watering-restrictions.
Trees
Please wait until July 1 to trim your oak trees if they even need it. To help prevent the devastating oak wilt, you need only hold out on pruning your oaks for a few more weeks.Be certain that your trees receive an adequate supply of water even if you ease off of lawn watering or have gone xeriscape. Trees can handle a number of years of drought, but at some point they can just give up. Please don’t neglect watering them.
Vegetables & Annuals
If you planted peppers, tomatoes or any other spring vegetable plants in containers or in the ground, they could use a dose of fertilizer this month. Remove the suckers from your tomatoes to encourage more fruit. Also harvest fresh vegetables often to ensure continual production. It’s better that you enjoy them rather than the squirrels, birds or insects.There is still time to plant colorful,heat -tolerant summer annuals. Be sure to hand water transplants as needed until roots become established. Annuals always enjoy an occasional boost of fertilizer.
Pests
If you see any pests on your flowering plants or shrubs, many may be eliminated with a spray application of a simple solution of one or two tablespoons of liquid soap (like Ivory, not a detergent like Dawn), to one quart of water. Be sure to spray the undersides of leaves and the stems too where most pests reside. If this doesn’t get your pests under control, call the Master Gardeners Help Desk with a description of your pest and they may offer a more potent, pest-specific solution.
Mosquitoes
Try not to allow water to sit in plant saucers, low spots in rain gutters, small pools and other vessels around your yard where mosquitoes can breed. Frequently change the water in bird baths. Keep your ground cover short. These practices can possibly reduce the presence of these dawn to dusk pests.
Container Plants
Hand water and fertilize potted plants and baskets as needed. On occasion, immerse your hanging basket plants in a tub of water. They tend to dry up a whole lot quicker than plants in the ground. Also consider moving some of your house plants outside for the summer. Don’t over-expose them to full sunshine. Most cannot tolerate that, but a cool, shady place might be beneficial to them.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
MAY
Lawn Care - If you haven’t done it yet and think your lawn needs a charge of nitrogen and other nutrients, you can put down lawn fertilizer. Generally, a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer is going to be right, but if you have had your soil tested recently, you may need a different N-P-K ratio. Whether you apply an organic or a chemical fertilizer, it should not contain a weed killer. Apply your fertilizer according to manufacturer’s direction suited to your spreader. Mowing should now be on a routine, once-a-week basis. Grass clippings should be allowed to drop to the lawn as they are one of the best sources of nutrients for your grass. St. Augustine grass should be sheared on the high side leaving the blades 2½ to 3 inches long. For a really shady lawn of St. Augustine, you’ll want to set your mower even higher. Bermuda grass can tolerate being cut shorter. A healthy lawn that has been fertilized, watered and mowed weekly can be your greatest defense against weeds. Keeping up your lawn mowing will keep down the weeds.
Trees, Shrubs & Ground covers
Any thoughts of planting new trees and/or shrubs probably should be tabled until next fall. Our Central Texas heat and sun can be awfully hard on new plantings, so hold off until November if you can. Instead, apply a layer of mulch to your existing shrubbery beds and tree bases. Just don’t cover any tree bark in applying a few inches of mulch. Regarding oak trees, signs all around our neighborhood point out “DO NOT PRUNE any oaks at this time.” You will have your opportunity to do so in the heat of the summer. Please don’t let an arborist convince you that it is safe to trim your oaks now. It's not.
Complete the pruning of spring-blooming shrubs. Naturally shaping them now is a good thing as they’ll continue to put out new growth and some will even begin setting buds for next spring.
Ground covers, like Asian jasmine with its fresh growth, maybe sheared back a bit to level it out. Keeping jasmine and other ground covers in check not only looks better, but may help prevent mosquitoes from harboring in them.
Bulbs
Hold off cutting back the yellowing foliage of your recently beautiful spring-blooming bulbs. Until the old leaves of narcissus and daffodils are ready to fall off on their own, they need to remain attached to their bulbs. While you can identify where your bulbs are, give them an application of bone meal to replenish the nutrients they’ll need for next spring’s show. Finally remove the spent leaves.
Roses
After your roses cycle through a bloom period, deadhead the spent flowers. Either remove just the dead flowers or cut the stems back to the first five leaflet leaves. Deadheading encourages repeat flowering and makes a tidier plant. Stick to a feeding schedule of every five or six weeks. A 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer (standard lawn fertilizer) should work fine. Although major pruning of most bush roses took place around Valentine’s Day, rambler and climbing roses are on a different schedule. Ramblers may be pruned now. Climbers should get their heavy pruning in the fall.
Perennials
Pinch back leggy plants like chrysanthemums and fall asters. This will encourage them to remain shorter, more compact, well-balanced plants with a better show in the fall. Deadhead your spring bloomers as they finish up their show. Iris, penstemon, daisies and columbine are just a few that appreciate the trimming.
Annuals
Sometime during this month those winter annuals you so enjoyed will give up blooming and stop looking pretty. Pansies, violas, snapdragons, some petunias, flowering cabbage and others literally can’t take the heat. Pull them out and replace them with a new batch of colorful, summer-loving annuals like marigolds, zinnias, periwinkle for the sunny gardens and coleus, begonias, geraniums, caladiums (yes, it’s safe to plant them later in May) for your shade gardens. Impatiens, however, are not a good choice. Even though they may look good in nurseries, there is a water-and air-borne disease out there called downy mildew that will take them out. It’s not a matter of if, but when. Luckily New Guinea impatiens are not prone to the fungus.
JUNE
Lawn & Garden Care
Keep on mowing weekly and begin watering according to Austin’s Stage 2 Water Restrictions or whatever restriction level we’re to follow in June.(Lake Travis may be full now, but we still have restrictions.) Hose-end irrigation days are different than automatic sprinkler system days, so be sure you are on the correct schedule and that you also know the limited hours of your day. Here’s where to find it:
http://austintexas.gov/department/watering-restrictions.
Trees
Please wait until July 1 to trim your oak trees if they even need it. To help prevent the devastating oak wilt, you need only hold out on pruning your oaks for a few more weeks.Be certain that your trees receive an adequate supply of water even if you ease off of lawn watering or have gone xeriscape. Trees can handle a number of years of drought, but at some point they can just give up. Please don’t neglect watering them.
Vegetables & Annuals
If you planted peppers, tomatoes or any other spring vegetable plants in containers or in the ground, they could use a dose of fertilizer this month. Remove the suckers from your tomatoes to encourage more fruit. Also harvest fresh vegetables often to ensure continual production. It’s better that you enjoy them rather than the squirrels, birds or insects.There is still time to plant colorful,heat -tolerant summer annuals. Be sure to hand water transplants as needed until roots become established. Annuals always enjoy an occasional boost of fertilizer.
Pests
If you see any pests on your flowering plants or shrubs, many may be eliminated with a spray application of a simple solution of one or two tablespoons of liquid soap (like Ivory, not a detergent like Dawn), to one quart of water. Be sure to spray the undersides of leaves and the stems too where most pests reside. If this doesn’t get your pests under control, call the Master Gardeners Help Desk with a description of your pest and they may offer a more potent, pest-specific solution.
Mosquitoes
Try not to allow water to sit in plant saucers, low spots in rain gutters, small pools and other vessels around your yard where mosquitoes can breed. Frequently change the water in bird baths. Keep your ground cover short. These practices can possibly reduce the presence of these dawn to dusk pests.
Container Plants
Hand water and fertilize potted plants and baskets as needed. On occasion, immerse your hanging basket plants in a tub of water. They tend to dry up a whole lot quicker than plants in the ground. Also consider moving some of your house plants outside for the summer. Don’t over-expose them to full sunshine. Most cannot tolerate that, but a cool, shady place might be beneficial to them.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
Around the Yard March - April
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This is an example of 'crepe murder'. Crepe myrtles should be lightly pruned, not hacked!
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As I write this March/April article, it’s beginning to feel like spring out there. It’s just the way it is in Central Texas. One day it’s sunny and warm. The next day it’s gray and feels like winter again.
Two quick reminder: one, it’s too late to prune oak trees even if a tree pruning crew says otherwise. I hope you know the reason why; and two, it’s too late to apply a pre-emergent weed killer to your lawn. Weeds, if you have them, have already emerged!
However, there are plenty of things that can be done in these next two months that will enhance your yard. Let me run you through some to help you prepare for another hot spring and summer.
March
Lawn Care
Dead live oak leaves are already coming down on our yards seemingly by the bucket and it’s a good thing to get them off your lawn as they won’t deteriorate very quickly on their own and are of no benefit to your grass. Add them to your home compost pile or bag or bin them up for city pick up.
If you stopped watering your lawn this winter, now is the time to begin watering again keeping to our city guidelines. Any weed removal from your lawn is now best done by hand, pulling the buggers out after a good soaking. You had your chance before February 15 to eradicate weeds with a pre-emergent weed killer, but now it’s too late for that application.
Soil Prep
If you are planning new flower beds or gardens or simply wish to rejuvenate old beds, this is a good time to get out there and fortify the soil. You may add one to two inches of rich compost and working it in. It is far, far better to feed the soil than to feed plants. Then when you are ready to plant new shrubs, groundcover, flowers and/or vegetables, your soil will be ready.
Shrubs & Groundcover
After the last danger of a freeze (usually by the first or second week of this month), most shrubs may be pruned to shape. If you have spring-flowering shrubs, wait to trim them until after they bloom. Most bushes can take a serious grooming at this time of year just before they produce their new spring-green growth.
Groundcovers, like Asian jasmine and liriope, may be sheared fairly close to the ground and will fill in pretty quickly. Old ratty-looking leaves of cast iron plants may be cut off and new ones will appear before long. By getting your groundcover shortened and in check, you may have fewer mosquitoes this summer.
Bulbs
If you are enjoying daffodil, narcissus or the flowers of other spring-blooming bulbs, remember that when they finish blooming you should allow their dying foliage to completely yellow before removing. Most other summer- and fall-blooming bulbs may be planted now with the exception of caladiums. They need really consistently warm soil (70º) before considering joining your beds, so hold off planting them until May.
Trees & Roses
Fruit trees, nut trees and rose bushes all need to be fertilized in March. They all can use the same 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer you plan to put on your lawn. Although your trees need only be fertilized once, roses would appreciate a feeding every five or six weeks. Mark your calendar now to remind you of upcoming applications.
Perennials
It’s a good time to divide existing clumps of fall-blooming perennials, such as chrysanthemums, fall asters, Mexican mint marigold, Mexican bush sage, obedient plant and the like. Consider sharing your divided plants with friends and neighbors. Leave spring- and summer-blooming perennial divisions until fall.
April
Lawn Care
Once you have mowed your greened-up lawn two or three times, you may finally apply a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer. The point is that this application should not go down on the lawn until your lawn has naturally greened up. Federal Income Tax Filing Day, a date we all know, can serve as a good reminder of when the fertilizer may go down on the lawn. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for proper application. Remember, this is fertilizer only. No weed killer.
Do mow your lawn weekly in the spring months. When mowing, allow your grass clipping to drop back onto your lawn. There are multiple benefits for doing this. If you have a compost pile, consider bagging your lawn clippings every other week and add them to your pile that needs a good balance of green and brown.
Mulch
It doesn’t really matter what kind of mulch you select. What’s important is that you put a fresh, thick three- to four-inch layer of it on all your gardens. There are so many benefits to mulch. Like grass clippings on the lawn, mulch helps the soil retain its precious moisture. It helps to control weeds. It adds organic matter to your soil. It keeps the soil and plant roots cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Fresh mulch adds curb appeal to your property too.
Crape Myrtles
If you haven’t done it already, you may “lightly” prune your crapes, meaning remove old seed heads and cut them back just a bit, because by now they should have greened up. Please, no crape murder! Beneath their branch spread give them 1/3 cup fertilizer (3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio) per square yard. If powdery mildew shows up on the leaves and stems, start a fungicide application immediately after the first sign of the disease. It may be necessary to continue fungicide sprays until leaves are mature.
Trees & Shrubs
This is about the last month that container-grown or ball-and-burlap trees and shrubs may be planted in you landscape this spring. (The best planting time is late fall through winter.) Be sure to make planting holes two to three times wider than the containers the plant comes in. Don’t dig the planting hole any deeper than the plant’s soil depth in the container. Carefully remove the tree or shrub from container, loosen the roots, set the plant in the hole so that it is level with the existing soil grade or just slightly above. Return the original soil (less the rocks), tamp soil and water in. Build a mulch saucer around the plant and then continue to water to meet the new plant’s needs. Do not fertilize at this time. That comes much later.
Vegetables
If you planted peppers, tomatoes or any other spring vegetable plants in containers or in the ground, they could use a dose of liquid fertilizer this month.
Watering
It may be a challenge once again this year as we don’t yet know if we’ll have tighter watering restrictions from our city, but do try to maintain your lawns by watering deeply during allotted days and designated times. It’s not just your lawn you are trying to keep alive. Your trees and landscaping are thirsty too when nature doesn’t provide.
________________________________________
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
Two quick reminder: one, it’s too late to prune oak trees even if a tree pruning crew says otherwise. I hope you know the reason why; and two, it’s too late to apply a pre-emergent weed killer to your lawn. Weeds, if you have them, have already emerged!
However, there are plenty of things that can be done in these next two months that will enhance your yard. Let me run you through some to help you prepare for another hot spring and summer.
March
Lawn Care
Dead live oak leaves are already coming down on our yards seemingly by the bucket and it’s a good thing to get them off your lawn as they won’t deteriorate very quickly on their own and are of no benefit to your grass. Add them to your home compost pile or bag or bin them up for city pick up.
If you stopped watering your lawn this winter, now is the time to begin watering again keeping to our city guidelines. Any weed removal from your lawn is now best done by hand, pulling the buggers out after a good soaking. You had your chance before February 15 to eradicate weeds with a pre-emergent weed killer, but now it’s too late for that application.
Soil Prep
If you are planning new flower beds or gardens or simply wish to rejuvenate old beds, this is a good time to get out there and fortify the soil. You may add one to two inches of rich compost and working it in. It is far, far better to feed the soil than to feed plants. Then when you are ready to plant new shrubs, groundcover, flowers and/or vegetables, your soil will be ready.
Shrubs & Groundcover
After the last danger of a freeze (usually by the first or second week of this month), most shrubs may be pruned to shape. If you have spring-flowering shrubs, wait to trim them until after they bloom. Most bushes can take a serious grooming at this time of year just before they produce their new spring-green growth.
Groundcovers, like Asian jasmine and liriope, may be sheared fairly close to the ground and will fill in pretty quickly. Old ratty-looking leaves of cast iron plants may be cut off and new ones will appear before long. By getting your groundcover shortened and in check, you may have fewer mosquitoes this summer.
Bulbs
If you are enjoying daffodil, narcissus or the flowers of other spring-blooming bulbs, remember that when they finish blooming you should allow their dying foliage to completely yellow before removing. Most other summer- and fall-blooming bulbs may be planted now with the exception of caladiums. They need really consistently warm soil (70º) before considering joining your beds, so hold off planting them until May.
Trees & Roses
Fruit trees, nut trees and rose bushes all need to be fertilized in March. They all can use the same 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer you plan to put on your lawn. Although your trees need only be fertilized once, roses would appreciate a feeding every five or six weeks. Mark your calendar now to remind you of upcoming applications.
Perennials
It’s a good time to divide existing clumps of fall-blooming perennials, such as chrysanthemums, fall asters, Mexican mint marigold, Mexican bush sage, obedient plant and the like. Consider sharing your divided plants with friends and neighbors. Leave spring- and summer-blooming perennial divisions until fall.
April
Lawn Care
Once you have mowed your greened-up lawn two or three times, you may finally apply a 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer. The point is that this application should not go down on the lawn until your lawn has naturally greened up. Federal Income Tax Filing Day, a date we all know, can serve as a good reminder of when the fertilizer may go down on the lawn. Follow the manufacturer’s directions for proper application. Remember, this is fertilizer only. No weed killer.
Do mow your lawn weekly in the spring months. When mowing, allow your grass clipping to drop back onto your lawn. There are multiple benefits for doing this. If you have a compost pile, consider bagging your lawn clippings every other week and add them to your pile that needs a good balance of green and brown.
Mulch
It doesn’t really matter what kind of mulch you select. What’s important is that you put a fresh, thick three- to four-inch layer of it on all your gardens. There are so many benefits to mulch. Like grass clippings on the lawn, mulch helps the soil retain its precious moisture. It helps to control weeds. It adds organic matter to your soil. It keeps the soil and plant roots cooler in the summer and warmer in the winter. Fresh mulch adds curb appeal to your property too.
Crape Myrtles
If you haven’t done it already, you may “lightly” prune your crapes, meaning remove old seed heads and cut them back just a bit, because by now they should have greened up. Please, no crape murder! Beneath their branch spread give them 1/3 cup fertilizer (3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratio) per square yard. If powdery mildew shows up on the leaves and stems, start a fungicide application immediately after the first sign of the disease. It may be necessary to continue fungicide sprays until leaves are mature.
Trees & Shrubs
This is about the last month that container-grown or ball-and-burlap trees and shrubs may be planted in you landscape this spring. (The best planting time is late fall through winter.) Be sure to make planting holes two to three times wider than the containers the plant comes in. Don’t dig the planting hole any deeper than the plant’s soil depth in the container. Carefully remove the tree or shrub from container, loosen the roots, set the plant in the hole so that it is level with the existing soil grade or just slightly above. Return the original soil (less the rocks), tamp soil and water in. Build a mulch saucer around the plant and then continue to water to meet the new plant’s needs. Do not fertilize at this time. That comes much later.
Vegetables
If you planted peppers, tomatoes or any other spring vegetable plants in containers or in the ground, they could use a dose of liquid fertilizer this month.
Watering
It may be a challenge once again this year as we don’t yet know if we’ll have tighter watering restrictions from our city, but do try to maintain your lawns by watering deeply during allotted days and designated times. It’s not just your lawn you are trying to keep alive. Your trees and landscaping are thirsty too when nature doesn’t provide.
________________________________________
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
Around the Yard January-February 2019
by Reeve Hobbie
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Proper Rose Bush Pruning (see February notes below) |
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Start 2019 off right by taking time every warm winter day we have to tend to your gardens and landscaping in preparation for the spring and summer to follow. Here are my month-to-month gardening tips that are applicable to Austin.
If you have gardening questions beyond what I cover each month, and I hope you do, please contact the Travis County Master Gardener Help Desk. The number is posted at the end of this article and you should find the TCMG volunteer’s answers most helpful.
January
Tools
Take advantage of this slow time of year to get your yard equipment (lawn mower, lawn trimmer, hedge trimmer, rototiller, chain saw, power washer and other equipment) tuned up and sharpened. If you wait until spring, it may take many weeks before you get your equipment back from the shop. Also take a look at all your other gardening tools (shovels, hoes, trowels, clippers, loppers, saws). It’s a great time to sharpen them and oil the blades of each. Consider replacing old worn out or worn down tools.
Soil
If you are planning new landscaping, new flower beds or gardens, or wish to rejuvenate old beds, now is the time to prepare your soil. You can add nutrients to our otherwise poor, rocky soil by adding rich compost. What nutrients do you need to add? Pick up a free soil test kit from a local nursery, follow the soil collection directions, and mail it in. At this time of year, results should come back to you in a few days and then you will know exactly what nutrients to add and work in. Getting soil fortified with the right nutrients and loosened up will make late winter and early spring planting a whole lot easier.
Trees & Shrubs
The best time to plant new trees and shrubs, or to transplant existing trees and shrubs, is in the winter. Yes, winter! Any new holes dug should be two to three times wider than the root ball or plastic container, but not an inch deeper than the soil depth in the ball or container. Stretch out the roots before refilling the hole with existing soil. Do not fertilize. Don’t let the bark of the tree or shrub sink below grade level. If anything, plant trees and shrubs on the high side. Then create a saucer of dirt and mulch around each and water in. Water sensibly, not too much and not too little.
Prune trees if necessary while they are dormant. If you hire someone, be certain that they are certified arborists. A list of these professionals may be obtained by calling the TCMG Help Desk. Regardless of whom you bring in, don’t let anyone trim your oak trees after January 31. The next chance to prune oaks won’t come up until July 1. If you are wondering about these time restrictions, read about the dreaded oak wilt in the Around the Yard Archives.
Hold off pruning shrubs, including crape myrtles, lantana, rose bushes, evergreens, until next month when they are just about ready to push out new growth. If pruned too early, it may stimulate fresh growth only to have that new growth frozen off. It could possibly lead to the death of those pruned plants. It’s simply better to wait until spring comes to Austin.
Lawn
Remove fallen leaves from your grass so your lawn doesn’t get diseased or stressed. Continue with an occasional watering if nature doesn’t provide. Plagued by spring weeds? Apply a pre-emergent weed killer to your lawn this month. Do not even consider applying fertilizer to your lawn until mid April (Tax Day). Definitely do not combine pre-emergent weed killing and lawn fertilizing into one application.
Winter Annuals & Spring Bulbs
Consider a light application of fertilizer around those annuals you planted this fall. Spring-flowering bulbs pushing up their green leaves now could use a fertilizer boost too. Scratch the 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer you apply into the soil around each plant or bulb and water in.
February
Now that you have dealt with your mower and other gardening tool maintenance, tree pruning and planting, and garden bed soil fortification, you are ready for the early spring that usually comes to us in late February. There are several things that you need to get on top of during the course of this month.
Roses
On or before February 14 (Valentine’s Day) each year, just about every kind of rose bush may be pruned – severely. To encourage new and better growth and blooms, be prepared to remove 1/3 to 1/2 the volume of the plant. Dead or damaged wood needs to come out, inward growing and crisscrossing canes need to be removed, suckers and weak branches need to be cut off. What you are seeking with each plant is a nicely shaped rose bush that gets plenty of light and a lot of air circulation. As an example, a 6-foot Knock Out® rose bush may be trimmed back to 3 feet leaving just 4 to 6 canes. Within a few weeks it will be a beautiful, airy, and shapely bush ready to produce strong blooms this year.
Plant new roses this month in the bed(s) you have already prepared. Roses need eight (8) or more hours of direct sun each day to be good bloomers. Morning sun is essential, but light afternoon shade is tolerated and even beneficial in our hot summer climate. Consider planting any of the dozens of Earth-Kind® roses available – cultivars that do well in Central Texas.
Groundcover
Whether you have Asian jasmine, vinca, ivy, ferns or some other kind of groundcover, it may be sheared back just before it is ready to push out new spring growth. Trimming it short may help to reduce your mosquito population later on. Ragged-looking liriope and cast iron plant foliage may also be cut back to the ground at this time. Fresh green leaves will begin appearing in no time.
Shrubs
Most all evergreen shrubs may be pruned back later this month. Here’s your opportunity to shape them before they begin to push out new growth. If your shrubs are overgrown and too large a scale for your house, replace them with new ones now so they can get established before the hot summer. (See my Landscaping article under Around the Yard Archives.)
Lawn
Early this month is your last opportunity to apply an organic or chemical pre-emergent weed killer (without fertilizer) to your lawn. If you miss this window, then hand-pulling weeds may be your only way recourse. Actually, a thick, strong carpet of grass is the very best method of preventing weeds, so improve the quality of your lawn this year by removing winter thatch and tree leaves, watering deeply each week, mowing at the proper level each week, and fertilizing (earliest application in April, but not before).
Crape Myrtles
If you feel it’s even necessary, crape myrtles may be pruned to remove last year’s seed heads just before they break dormancy. All you need are hand clippers to cut back the little branches the size of your pinky finger or smaller. Do not bring out your loppers or saw unless you intend on removing a major trunk at the base of the plant. We see far too much “crape murder” around Austin. Once improperly pruned, a crape will always show its knobby scars encouraging more annual “crape murder.”
Perennials & Annuals
Even though some stores and nurseries will be selling perennials and spring annuals, it is still too early to plant them. Our average last freeze is usually not until early March. Instead, keep preparing your garden beds. Fortify the soil and loosen it up as you work those nutrients in. Then you can buy your heartier varieties of plants starting next month.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
If you have gardening questions beyond what I cover each month, and I hope you do, please contact the Travis County Master Gardener Help Desk. The number is posted at the end of this article and you should find the TCMG volunteer’s answers most helpful.
January
Tools
Take advantage of this slow time of year to get your yard equipment (lawn mower, lawn trimmer, hedge trimmer, rototiller, chain saw, power washer and other equipment) tuned up and sharpened. If you wait until spring, it may take many weeks before you get your equipment back from the shop. Also take a look at all your other gardening tools (shovels, hoes, trowels, clippers, loppers, saws). It’s a great time to sharpen them and oil the blades of each. Consider replacing old worn out or worn down tools.
Soil
If you are planning new landscaping, new flower beds or gardens, or wish to rejuvenate old beds, now is the time to prepare your soil. You can add nutrients to our otherwise poor, rocky soil by adding rich compost. What nutrients do you need to add? Pick up a free soil test kit from a local nursery, follow the soil collection directions, and mail it in. At this time of year, results should come back to you in a few days and then you will know exactly what nutrients to add and work in. Getting soil fortified with the right nutrients and loosened up will make late winter and early spring planting a whole lot easier.
Trees & Shrubs
The best time to plant new trees and shrubs, or to transplant existing trees and shrubs, is in the winter. Yes, winter! Any new holes dug should be two to three times wider than the root ball or plastic container, but not an inch deeper than the soil depth in the ball or container. Stretch out the roots before refilling the hole with existing soil. Do not fertilize. Don’t let the bark of the tree or shrub sink below grade level. If anything, plant trees and shrubs on the high side. Then create a saucer of dirt and mulch around each and water in. Water sensibly, not too much and not too little.
Prune trees if necessary while they are dormant. If you hire someone, be certain that they are certified arborists. A list of these professionals may be obtained by calling the TCMG Help Desk. Regardless of whom you bring in, don’t let anyone trim your oak trees after January 31. The next chance to prune oaks won’t come up until July 1. If you are wondering about these time restrictions, read about the dreaded oak wilt in the Around the Yard Archives.
Hold off pruning shrubs, including crape myrtles, lantana, rose bushes, evergreens, until next month when they are just about ready to push out new growth. If pruned too early, it may stimulate fresh growth only to have that new growth frozen off. It could possibly lead to the death of those pruned plants. It’s simply better to wait until spring comes to Austin.
Lawn
Remove fallen leaves from your grass so your lawn doesn’t get diseased or stressed. Continue with an occasional watering if nature doesn’t provide. Plagued by spring weeds? Apply a pre-emergent weed killer to your lawn this month. Do not even consider applying fertilizer to your lawn until mid April (Tax Day). Definitely do not combine pre-emergent weed killing and lawn fertilizing into one application.
Winter Annuals & Spring Bulbs
Consider a light application of fertilizer around those annuals you planted this fall. Spring-flowering bulbs pushing up their green leaves now could use a fertilizer boost too. Scratch the 3-1-2 ratio fertilizer you apply into the soil around each plant or bulb and water in.
February
Now that you have dealt with your mower and other gardening tool maintenance, tree pruning and planting, and garden bed soil fortification, you are ready for the early spring that usually comes to us in late February. There are several things that you need to get on top of during the course of this month.
Roses
On or before February 14 (Valentine’s Day) each year, just about every kind of rose bush may be pruned – severely. To encourage new and better growth and blooms, be prepared to remove 1/3 to 1/2 the volume of the plant. Dead or damaged wood needs to come out, inward growing and crisscrossing canes need to be removed, suckers and weak branches need to be cut off. What you are seeking with each plant is a nicely shaped rose bush that gets plenty of light and a lot of air circulation. As an example, a 6-foot Knock Out® rose bush may be trimmed back to 3 feet leaving just 4 to 6 canes. Within a few weeks it will be a beautiful, airy, and shapely bush ready to produce strong blooms this year.
Plant new roses this month in the bed(s) you have already prepared. Roses need eight (8) or more hours of direct sun each day to be good bloomers. Morning sun is essential, but light afternoon shade is tolerated and even beneficial in our hot summer climate. Consider planting any of the dozens of Earth-Kind® roses available – cultivars that do well in Central Texas.
Groundcover
Whether you have Asian jasmine, vinca, ivy, ferns or some other kind of groundcover, it may be sheared back just before it is ready to push out new spring growth. Trimming it short may help to reduce your mosquito population later on. Ragged-looking liriope and cast iron plant foliage may also be cut back to the ground at this time. Fresh green leaves will begin appearing in no time.
Shrubs
Most all evergreen shrubs may be pruned back later this month. Here’s your opportunity to shape them before they begin to push out new growth. If your shrubs are overgrown and too large a scale for your house, replace them with new ones now so they can get established before the hot summer. (See my Landscaping article under Around the Yard Archives.)
Lawn
Early this month is your last opportunity to apply an organic or chemical pre-emergent weed killer (without fertilizer) to your lawn. If you miss this window, then hand-pulling weeds may be your only way recourse. Actually, a thick, strong carpet of grass is the very best method of preventing weeds, so improve the quality of your lawn this year by removing winter thatch and tree leaves, watering deeply each week, mowing at the proper level each week, and fertilizing (earliest application in April, but not before).
Crape Myrtles
If you feel it’s even necessary, crape myrtles may be pruned to remove last year’s seed heads just before they break dormancy. All you need are hand clippers to cut back the little branches the size of your pinky finger or smaller. Do not bring out your loppers or saw unless you intend on removing a major trunk at the base of the plant. We see far too much “crape murder” around Austin. Once improperly pruned, a crape will always show its knobby scars encouraging more annual “crape murder.”
Perennials & Annuals
Even though some stores and nurseries will be selling perennials and spring annuals, it is still too early to plant them. Our average last freeze is usually not until early March. Instead, keep preparing your garden beds. Fortify the soil and loosen it up as you work those nutrients in. Then you can buy your heartier varieties of plants starting next month.
If you have questions about your yard or garden, please call Travis County Master Gardeners at 512-854-9600. If they don’t have an immediate answer, they’ll research it and get back to you.
